Glossary
Please Read Through Our Glossary Of Jewellery Terms
| Albert Chain: | A gentleman’s watch chain with crossbar. |
| Antique: | An item of jewellery which is at least 100 years old. These items are deemed to have a high value because of its age and quality. |
| Art Deco: | The decorative art style of the 1920s and 1930s. Characterised by bold geometric shapes, clean lines with simple, elegant and practical designs. |
| Art Modern: | An extension of the Art Deco era in the 1940s and 1950s. Jewellery of this period was bolder, larger and more colourful than in previous times and sometimes referred to as ‘glitzy’. |
| Art Nouveau: | The art style of the late 19th century with ornamented and flowing designs. |
| Articulated: | Having two or more sections connected by a flexible joint with clearly distinguishable parts. |
| Asscher Cut: | Is a form of square emerald cut. Asscher cut diamonds are roughly square in shape when viewed from above but have cut corners for more light to enter the diamond. They typically have 50 or 58 facets and their ideal length to width ratio is 1 to 1.04. The Asscher cut was invented in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, the artisan diamond cutter who founded the I.J Asscher Diamond Company, now known as the Royal Asscher Diamond Company. It was the first patented diamond cut, protecting it from replication from other companies The Asscher cut was a staple of art deco jewellery, with its straight lines and brilliance making it perfect for the movement. |
| Baguette: | A gem, especially a diamond, cut in a long rectangular shape. |
| Ballerina: | A ballerina cluster ring is a style of cluster inspired by a ballerina’s tutu. |
| Band: | The part of the ring that wraps around the finger which is also known as a ‘shank’. |
| Bangle: | A rigid ornamental band worn around the arm. |
| Bar Brooch: | An elongated horizontal brooch. |
| Base Metal: | A common metal that is not considered precious, such as copper, tin or zinc. |
| Bavette: | A necklace made from multiple bead strands of unequal length bought together at the clasp. Bavette necklaces are often made of pearls. |
| Bezel: | The rim which encompasses and fastens a jewel to a piece of jewellery. |
| Birthstone: | A gemstone associated with the month or astrological sign of a person’s birth. |
| Bombe: | Literally meaning ‘bomb-shaped’, these rings have a rounded curving shape. |
| Boucheron: | Is a French luxury jewellery and watches house located in Paris. |
| Brilliance: | A measure of the light performance of gemstone diamonds. |
| Brilliant Cut: | A circular cut in a particular form with numerous facets so as to have exceptional brilliance. |
| Cabochon: | A gemstone which has been shaped and polished as opposed to faceted. |
| Calibre: | A stone that has been specially cut to fit into a particular mount. |
| Cameo: | A piece of jewellery, typically oval in shape, carved in a way to leave a raised design on a single piece of material. |
| Carat: | A measure of the purity of gold, pure gold being 24 carats. Or a unit of weight for precious stones and pearls, 1 carat being the equivalent of 200 milligrams. |
| Cat’s Eye: | A semi-precious stone, especially chalcedony, with a band of bright lustre. |
| Ceylon: | Used to describe the origin of Sapphire from Sri Lanka (formerly known as ‘Ceylon’). |
| Chalcedony: | A microcrystalline type of quartz occurring in several different forms including onyx & agate where the crystal structure is so small and dense that it results in an incredibly smooth gemstone. |
| Channel Set: | When stones are set along a track between two walls of metal. As a result the stones are nestled against each other and not separated by prongs, beads or bezels. |
| Chatoyancy: | The cat’s eye effect when there is a band of bright lustre visible. |
| Chrysoprase: | An apple-green gemstone consisting of a variety of chalcedony that contains nickel. |
| Clarity: | The measure of a gemstone’s purity. |
| Claw Setting: | Where the gemstone is secured using a number of metal claws allowing more light to pass through the stone. |
| Cleavage: | A plane within a gemstone along which a clean break may occur. |
| Closed Back: | A type of setting whereby the bottom of the gemstone is enclosed and not visible. |
| Cocktail Ring: | An eye-catching oversized ring, typically featuring large gemstones. |
| Collet Set: | A ring of metal rising perpendicular to the surface of the item and designed to encircle the girdle of a gemstone. The upper edge is pressed over onto the crown of the stone thereby securing the gem in place. |
| Colour: | The scale used to grade the colour of a Diamond ranging from D – Z. |
| Crossover Ring: | This describes any ring where the shank either splits and crosses over one another or where the two ends bear away from each other and sit side by side. |
| Crown: | The crown is the top part of a stone above the girdle. |
| Culet: | The small facet which is at the very bottom of the stone. |
| Cushion Cut: | A square cut diamond with rounded corners giving it the appearance of a cushion shape. |
| Cut: | The cut of a diamond refers to how well the facets of the stone interact with light to display visual effects such as; Brightness, Fire and Scintillation. |
| Demantoid: | A lustrous green variety of garnet. |
| Dress Ring: | A ring that is worn for its formal or stylish appearance as opposed to a token of an event such as an engagement or marriage. |
| Edwardian: | The period of the reign of King Edward VII between 1903 – 1910. |
| Eight Cut: | Also known as single cuts. This refers to diamonds cut as round brilliants but with fewer than the standard 57-58 facets. They can also be called ‘Melee’ Diamonds. |
| En Tremblant: | Used to describe jewellery that has been set in such a way that it trembles when touched. The movement is particularly effective in diamond set jewels as they shimmer beautifully when trembled. Most often seen in 18th and 19th century jewellery. |
| Enamel: | An opaque or semi-transparent glossy substance that is a type of glass, applied by vitrification to metallic or other hard surfaces. |
| Eternity Ring: | A ring given the symbol of lasting affection typically set with an unbroken circle of gems. |
| European Cut: | A predecessor of the round brilliant diamond the European cut also has 58 facets and was created in the late 19th century. Its higher crown, smaller table and larger culet gives the stone an incredible depth and presence. |
| Eye Clean: | A term for a gem with no visible inclusions to the naked eye. |
| Facet: | A flat surface on the geometric shape of a cut gem. |
| Fancy: | Naturally coloured diamonds beyond the colourless range from D-Z are called fancy coloured diamonds. They can have tones of yellow, brown, red, green and blue. Those with a darker hue are considered to be extremely rare and have a higher value. |
| Filigree: | Ornamental work of fine gold or silver wire formed into delicate tracery. |
| Fluorescence: | The emission of light when a gemstone is subjected to UV light. |
| Flush: | To sit ‘flush’ is a term used to describe when two materials are sat next to each other at the same level, such as an engagement ring and a wedding ring. In a flush setting a diamond is set into a drilled hole in the band so that the diamond sits ‘flush’ with the band. |
| Fob: | A decorative item or seal suspended from a gentleman’s watch chain. |
| Foil Backed: | Used to describe when a piece of foil has been set behind the stone to improve its appearance. |
| Fracture: | Refers to rough or irregular surfaces other than cleavage directions along which the mineral breaks randomly. |
| Gallery: | The vertical part of the ring which sits on top of the finger and supports the bezel. This can be decoratively pierced or engraved. |
| Georgian: | The period of the reign of the British Kings George I-IV between 1714 – 1830. |
| Gilt/Gilded: | Describes when an item has been dipped in gold leaving a fine layer on the surface. |
| Gimmel Ring: | A ring with two or three hoops or links that fit together to form one complete ring. |
| Guilloche: | A decorative technique in which a very precise, intricate and repetitive pattern is mechanically engraved onto a metal. |
| Gypsy: | A setting where the diamond appears to sit flush with the surface of the metal. Typically this setting is used for accent diamonds or smaller stones set into wedding rings. |
| Heat Treatment: | A process using high temperatures to enhance a gemstone which can alter colours or inclusions. |
| Illusion: | A setting where the metal surrounds the stone in a way that makes the stone appear bigger than it actually is. |
| Inclusion: | An inclusion is any material that is trapped inside a gemstone at the time that stone is formed. |
| Intaglio: | When a carving is designed to cut into the surface of a stone and is the opposite of cameo which is carved in relief. |
| Iridescence: | The exhibition of interference colours from the surface or interior of a mineral, caused by light interference from thin films or layers of different refractive index. |
| Jabot Pin: | A brooch with a bejewelled motif at either end which is pinned in such a way that only the decorative ends are seen, allowing the fabric to show in between. Historically these were used to secure the ruffled or lace piece of fabric, known as the jabot, that men wore on the front of their shirts. |
| Kashmir: | A region in India that is known for its unparalleled quality of Sapphires which were only mined between 1881 and 1887. These sapphires have a deep cobalt blue colour and silky appearance superior to any other. They are very rare and demand high prices. |
| Lower Girdle Facets: | These facets extend from the girdle edge towards the culet which are sometimes known as ‘lower halves’ in the trade. |
| Maker’s Mark: | The initials or name of the manufacturing firm or other representative symbol stamped or engraved on an item of jewellery. |
| Marquise: | This diamond is cut in an oval shape with pointed ends and has the largest surface area of any other diamond. Originally commissioned by Louis XV King of France in the 18th century the stone was asked to resemble the lips of mistress The Marchioness Madame de Pompadour, Jean Antoinette Posson. The stone has been refined over generations but remains reminiscent of its romantic origins. |
| Melee: | Small diamonds either single cut or full cut weighing less than ⅕ carat. They are often cut into tiny diamonds and set around a centre stone or on the band. |
| Micro-Mosaic: | A mosaic that uses unusually small mosaic pieces of glass, or in later Italian pieces an enamel-like material, to make small figurative images. |
| Mid Century: | Used to describe the design style between 1940’s and 1960’s. |
| Mixed Cut: | This cut combines both the step cut and the brilliant cut styles. They have brilliant facets on the crown and step facets on the pavilion, or vice versa. |
| Mohs Scale: | A qualitative ordinal scale from 1 to 10 characterizing the scratch resistance of various minerals through the ability of harder material to scratch softer material, where 1 is the hardest and 10 is the softest. |
| Mosaic: | A picture or pattern produced by arranging together small pieces of stone or glass. |
| Natural: | Any gem that has been formed within the earth or oceans from natural geological processes. |
| Navette Cut: | More commonly known as Marquise cut. |
| Old Cut: | A term used to describe antique cut diamonds before the precision of modern cut diamonds. Old cut diamonds have a unique sparkle that is difficult to replicate in modern stones due to them being cut by hand. |
| Old European Cut: | A predecessor of the round brilliant diamond, this cut also has 58 facets and was created in the late 19th century. Its higher crown, smaller table and larger culet gives the stone an incredible depth and presence. |
| Old Mine Cut: | In addition to a different shape, this cut has different diamond proportions. An old mine cut typically has a smaller table, larger culet and higher crown. It also has short lower half facets and a girdle that is very thin in places which gives this diamond a very distinctive look. |
| Oval Cut: | This cut is simply an elongated round brilliant cut. It has the brilliance and fire of a round brilliant cut but with a more unique shape that can make a diamond of the same carat weight look larger. |
| Parure: | A set (suite) of jewellery intended to be worn together usually including necklace, earrings, bracelet, ring and occasionally tiara. |
| Paste: | A term for glass when it has been moulded to resemble a gemstone most commonly diamond. |
| Patina: | A thin layer that forms on the surface of precious metals and certain stones produced by oxidation through age and exposure. |
| Pavè: | When many stones cover the surface of a piece of jewellery and are set very closely together held in place by small claws. |
| Pavilion: | The place below the girdle which is often noticeable as the ‘V’ shape of the base of the diamond. The pavilion is the part of the stone that reflects light back through the crown to the viewer. |
| Pear Cut: | This cut blends the marquise and oval cuts with one rounded end and a point at the other. It is also referred to as the teardrop or drop cut. |
| Penannular: | Refers to an item of jewellery in the form of a ring but with a small part of the circumference missing. |
| Pigeon’s Blood: | A term used to describe an extremely rare and distinctive hue of bluish-red found in rubies from the Mogok region in Upper Burma. |
| Pinchbeck: | An alloy of copper and zinc used especially to imitate gold in jewellery. |
| Piquè: | A technique in which gold or silver is inlaid in tortoiseshell and sometimes ivory or mother-of-pearl. Another meaning is the French word for an inclusion in a diamond. |
| Plique-a-jour: | A technique where enamel is applied in a metal cell with no backing to allow the light to shine through the transparent or translucent enamel. |
| Poincon: | The French word for hallmark. |
| Point Cut: | This cut is widely thought to be one of the very first faceting diamond shapes created by humans. The octahedral shape is close to that commonly found in many naturally occurring diamonds and the first polishing methods allowed for little more than polishing of the surfaces of the natural diamond. Most point cut diamonds have since been recut using more advanced cutting methods and as a result a point cut diamond is incredibly rare. |
| Polish: | Referring to the quality of the surface of a gemstone as a result of the polishing process. |
| Princess Cut: | This cut is characterised by its geometric, sharp square shape. A contemporary cut with angular, strong lines, it has a pyramidal shape with four bevelled sides. |
| Provenance: | A historical record of ownership which can add value to a piece, particularly if it was manufactured, owned or worn by a person or firm of note. It is also used to pinpoint the date or era of manufacture thus validating the antique status of estate jewellery pieces. |
| Quatrefoil: | An ornamental design of four lobes or leaves resembling a flower or clover. |
| Radiant Cut: | This cut combines the stylish lines of a square or rectangular shape with the brilliance of the traditional round brilliant cut. The radiant cut had cropped corners and is a combination of round and emerald cut styles. |
| Regard Ring: | This is a ring where the initials of the precious stones set on a band spell out the work ‘regard’; Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby and Diamond, and are set in that sequence. |
| Retro: | Refers to jewellery created in the late 1930’s and 1940’s. |
| Rose Cut: | Considered one of the original diamond cuts, the rose cut diamond dates back to the early 1500’s. With anywhere from 3 to 24 triangular facets, this cut peaks into a dome or kite shape which resembles the soft curve of a rose petal. |
| Round Brilliant Cut: | Total internal reflection of this stone means the round brilliant diamond outshines the other cuts. This cut includes 57 perfectly aligned facets delivering optimum brilliance and scintillation. |
| Rubover: | Unlike the traditional claw setting, the rubover design cradles the main stone within a continuous band of metal, framing the stone and giving it a fresh, modern appearance. |
| Safety Chain: | A small chain used as a secondary safeguard on a piece of jewellery. |
| Shank: | The section of a ring that wraps around the finger which is also known as the band. |
| Shoulders: | The shoulders of a ring flow seamlessly from the shank to the setting and vary greatly in shape and style. |
| Signet Ring: | These are rings that have been engraved with a unique family crest or initials. |
| Single Cut: | Also known as eight cuts. This refers to diamonds cut as round brilliants but with fewer than the standard 57-58 facets. They can also be called ‘Melee’ Diamonds. |
| Solitaire: | A solitaire refers to any piece of jewellery with a single diamond. |
| Star Facet: | These triangular facets extend from the table to the upper girdle facets. There are 8 star facets. |
| Step Cut: | This cut is usually a square or rectangular shape with facets arranged as parallel lines to one another on all four sides. The facets tend to be larger than in brilliant cut diamonds and because of their arrangement they look like steps. |
| Stud Earrings: | These earrings feature a gemstone or other ornament mounted on a narrow post that passes through a piercing in the ear or earlobe which is held in place by a fixture on the other side. They appear to float on the earlobe. |
| Synthetic: | A synthetic gem is a man-made material with essentially the same chemical composition, crystal structure and optical and physical properties as a natural gem. |
| Symmetry: | This refers to how well aligned the diamond facets are and is graded on a range from poor to excellent. |
| Table: | This is the large flat facet on a diamond’s surface that you can see when you look at the diamond from above. As the largest facet on a diamond the table plays a major role in determining how sparkly the diamond is. |
| Target: | Refers to a cluster of gems in the shape of a Bull’s Eye. |
| Tiger’s Eye: | A brown variety of quartz which is normally cut as a cabochon to display chatoyancy. |
| Transitional Cut: | These are diamonds cut from around 1920 through the 1940’s meaning that they were crafted in the era in which the industry was moving from the old mine and old European cuts to the modern round brilliant. |
| Tremblant: | This is a French term meaning ‘to tremble’. It is used to describe jewellery where parts of the diamond set pieces were attached to a material that acts as a spring, such as a thin metal wire to create movement in the jewel when worn. |
| Untreated: | This refers to any gem that is free from any man made enhancements, for example, heat treatment. |
| Victorian: | The period of the reign of Queen Victoria between 1837 – 1901. |
| Vinaigrette: | A small ornamental bottle for holding smelling salts. |
| Vintage: | Used to describe an item that is between 50 – 100 years old but not an antique. |
| Watch Chain: | A metal chain securing a pocket watch. |
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